I hadn't heard of a prong collar so looked it up and found this descriptionthey then have their pinch/prong collar that they wair for walking.
I started using a prong on 'Lo when she was pretty young, too young by some peoples standards. But the problem was, when she was revved her tolerance to physical stimuli was huge. No matter how many light pops, angry words or pokes would work to distract her for more then a second. If I tried clickers and treats she's lock unto me, but only for long enough to eat the treat then she was back on the end of her leash. I know the way it's supposed to be done would of been for me to go farther away and slowly go closer keeping her below threshold, and now I do if I can. But she was a nut as a pup (I love it now, but I wasn't ready for such a high drive dog two years ago) and I was new to dogs (2/3 year with lazy D) and it was the best method for me. She would pull, and it would hurt her a little (a little bit, I can't stress this enough, no wounds, no red sores, no screaming, just a tightness) so she would pull less, plain and simply. It would also turn her brain on more, and I was able to get through to her. Now at two years old, I can take her to shows and events on a martingale and keep her in check with my words and treats.To understand how the prong collar (or any collar) works as a stimulus, you must first understand how the dog learns. Briefly, the dog learns when the advantages and disadvantages of his actions are spelled out in black and white. When the choice between advantage and disadvantage is clearly defined, the dog is able to make his decision without stress or confusion.
The prong collar, or any other properly applied stimulus, allows the dog a clear choice. All collars work by creating unpleasantness for the dog---the collar tightens, which the dog dislikes, and therefore he is motivated to act in such a fashion that the collar does not tighten. Depending on the dog, unpleasantness (the collar tightening) sufficient to motivate him may be nothing more than the pressure of a flat buckle collar. Just as some people react dramatically when they stub their toe, and others with just a whimper, dogs, too, display a wide range of tolerance to physical stimuli.
instead each individual blunt prong is drawn tighter to the dogs skin when they pull. If it's really bunching and pinching together the skin, the collar isn't high enough on the neck. If it's properly sized it'll stay stretched out.which in turn causes the prong collar to tighten and pinch together the dog’s flesh.
I don't like flexi leashes. Main reason, they teach dogs to pull. After all, your dog get's more room out if the leash by pulling, so it sends a very clear signal pull=go forward. Also, there dangerous if used wrongly, and most of the time they are. http://www.thatmutt.com/2008/08/18/10-reasons-not-to-buy-a-flexi-leash/ http://www.dogwise.com/forums/messageview.cfm?catid=9&threadid=2668 I think if you can teach your dog the difference between flexi and not flexi (aka, when you can pull) and not use it in crowded places, then it's fine. But so many don't and get others (sometimes badly) hurt because of it.Still trying to decide on a normal lead or a flexi lead. What are your thoughts?
If you can teach them the difference like Enneirda suggests both work fine and agree that a flexi is only really used in open spaces to keep them safe - I use mine with Flo if we are in an area where we might come across children on horses, if there is livestock in fields with fencing she could slip through or if I see a dog in the distance that I know isn't safe or appears not be under control as she will still run rather enthusiastically up to any other dogs.I think if you can teach your dog the difference between flexi and not flexi (aka, when you can pull) and not use it in crowded places, then it's fine.
